The best of MFW: after two years of Pandemic, in the streets of Milan you can breathe again the air of fashion that starts again with fashion shows, events, presentations and appointments in presence.
After New York and London, it is the turn of Milan Fashion Week to present the Fall Winter 2022 2023 fashion collections of Italian excellence.
Here is an account of the fashion shows that have made the most noise and the must-have garments of the most famous fashion houses.
In this MFW 2022 Alberta Ferretti designs a collection that expresses all the desire to return to have fun and play with fashion.
The “day” looks wink at the seventies, including wide-brimmed hats (already a must-have accessory of the collection) and wool or velvet suits and coats in neutral tones, oversized, but with the waist well in evidence. For the evening she chooses lamé, velvet, sequins, fur coats and lace dresses.
The bon ton eroticism of Roberto Cavalli through his creative director, the designer Fausto Puglisi, dresses a woman without fear of daring, free, sensual and self-confident.
The animalier is declined in fluorescent tones, the jumpsuits have a second skin effect and sprout from the tweed coats, the clothes are precious and scenic, characterized by generous cut out details and characterized by leather buckles that run through the body.
The inspiration comes from the story: Maria Sophia of Bourbon, the last queen of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.
Collection designed by four hands in the Prada house: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons mix their predilection for clean lines of the nineties and the desire to provoke with sequins and crystals and the rigorous imprint left in Simons of the years spent as artistic director in the Dior maison.
The result? Longuettes, slipped knitted dresses, severe air coats dampened by colored feathers, structured suits.
The look that will be trendy? Surely the over dark gray sweater combined with the tailored wheel skirt: simple and rigorous, the fifth essence of the least chic.
If it is true that fashion is fantasy, no one like Jeremy Scott, creative director of Moschino, knows how to enhance it by even imagining a traveling nineteenth-century living room.
So here are clothes (with classic lines) that have incorporated Chinese screens, sofas, pendulum clocks, rococo armchairs.
The lampshades then become hats and the earrings are crystal chandeliers, the belts clink with cutlery, the jackets are decorated with taps or drawers, the champagne baskets become handbags …
Keys and locks are a recurring element of the collection: through necklines, pendants etc.
Finally, the models become living statues wrapped in pure gold clothes, such as the dress worn by Gigi Hadid and another golden and fascinating one accompanied by a real harp of crystals.
Grand finale? Jeremy Scott on the catwalk dressed as Kubrick’s astronaut with a red jumpsuit and helmet on his head.
Tod’s collection is called “Italian Beauty” and celebrates, as the name suggests, Italian beauty.
Walter Chiapponi reinvents the icons of Italian lifestyle and culture thinking of key garments for a functional but elegant, modern and versatile wardrobe: black predominates on the catwalk, accompanied by honeyed nuances such as caramel and cream contrasted with orange, green and vivid blue.
They parade from more classic looks such as the men’s cut suits with wool coat coordinated with the most daring, like the Saharan that becomes a mini dress, both outfits have been worn by the wonderful Gigi Hadid.
Leather is the protagonist together with knitwear. Lots of looks with men’s jackets, windproof or biker worn on leggings, pants and miniskirts.
The accessories recall the icons of the brand, from small handbags to sandals, for a sporty and glamorous woman.
Gucci continues to play the contamination between famous brands, this time it does so with Adidas creating a wonderful contrast between luxury and active sportswear.
The collaboration certainly cannot go unnoticed: the clover accompanied by the Gucci inscription in capital letters, and the three white stripes make their appearance almost everywhere: on the sleeves and pockets of the jackets, on the triangular maxi shoppers, on gloves, on the headdresses and on the shoes, where one heel shows off the classic gold-colored double G and the other the symbol of Adidas.
Active, luxury and tailoring meet and intertwine often and willingly: emblematic is the contrast made with an important skirt, trawl, and a tight sports top, red and black, with the inevitable white stripes.
The Fendi collection appears impalpable, ethereal but structured and solid, a meeting of contrasts in perfect harmony.
Of impact is the delicacy of the fabrics that look like georgette and silk, from which you can see the underwear in palette, the dominant color is gray in all its shades combined with tones of powder pink and sage green.
A chase of tops, longuettes and evanescent dresses, which follow the body as if they were made of water interrupted by structured clothes that lend themselves to shaping the waist by tightening it in corsets, jackets, sheath skirts, trouser suits in blue or cognac color that embrace the figure, redefining it in a sartorial silhouette.
To lash the rigor, however, there is the construction of the model, always unpredictable and different, playful and asymmetrical, where perhaps a longuette has three lengths that start from the waist for pure whim, without any real reason.
The Armani woman for this Autumn/Winter is sober and elegant. She does not dare excessively and feels comfortable in garments with a dark color palette, from black, to electric blue, to shades of pearl gray, you see only a few hints of pink and optical white.
In this MFW the cuts are classic and timeless, always soft and comfortable, they accompany the woman’s body to embrace her and without ever forcing her in perfect Armani style, even when it comes to blazers, suits and classic trousers.
The coats and overcoats are long, covering ton on ton or salmon, while the clothes are light, gentle, sprinkled with crystals, soft and slipped, almost impalpable but with elaborate embroidery.
“My decision not to use any kind of music made as a sign of respect for all the people involved in the ongoing tragedy in Ukraine” says a voiceover before giorgio Armani’s parade begins.
And then in the hall takes place in silence the presentation of the collection for next winter.
“A few hours before I thought about what I could do for what happens, it is not sending money or clothes but signaling my heartbeat for these children” says Giorgio Armani, not being able to hold back the emotion.
“The best thing is to give the signal that we do not want to celebrate because something around us disturbs us a lot,” said King George. “So I said: I don’t want music, the girls were excited more than for any music, they were really understood by me and the collection earned 100% of it.”
Shared by the whole Fashion System the feeling of witnessing a historical moment in the history of fashion and the relief in seeing, practically on the last day of fashion shows in Milan, a strong position with respect to the war in Ukraine.